服裝設(shè)計外文翻譯--服裝的合體性和拉鏈的應(yīng)用對加納市場的影響（節(jié)選）

1、<p>　　1400單詞，7700英文字符，2200漢字</p><p>　　出處：Nkrumah E. The Effect of Garment Fit and Zipper Application on The Performance of Zipper on The Ghanaian Market[J]. African Journal of Applied Research (AJAR), 2

2、015, 1(1).</p><p><b>　　原文 </b></p><p>　　THE EFFECT OF GARMENT FIT AND ZIPPER APPLICATION ON THE PERFORMANCE OF ZIPPER ON THE GHANAIAN MARKET</p><p>　　krumah, E. <

3、;/p><p><b>　　ABSTRACT</b></p><p>　　Zippers are one of the commonly used fasteners in the clothing industry in Ghana because zipper costs relatively less and are easier to fasten than ot

4、her fasteners. However, it is perceived that most zippers on the Ghanaian market do not function effectively as they should due to incorrect practices in dressmaking. The aim of the study was to examine the factors in ga

5、rment construction that affect the performance of zippers. The objectives are to identify the effect of garment fit on zipper perf</p><p>　　Keywords: Zipper; Fastener; Performance; Garment; Ghana</p>

6、<p>　　INTRODUCTION </p><p>　　Zippers are one of the commonly used fasteners in the clothing industry worldwide. Gaddis (2011) argued that zippers were the first machines that people learnt to maste

7、r in their childhood and have remained the most common mechanisms of daily lives. It may in fact be just a little startling to think of zippers as machines, but surely that is what they are; carefully fitted pieces

8、of metal and plastic that must move in close coordination. When this coordination fails, the garment may be unusable </p><p><b>　　Aim </b></p><p>　　The aim of the study was to e

9、xamine the effect garment fit and zipper application method on the performance of zippers on the Ghanaian market.</p><p>　　Objectives </p><p>　　The specific objectives are to: </p><p&

10、gt;　　1. Identify the effect of garment fit on zipper performance. </p><p>　　2. Determine the effect of zipper application method on zipper performance. </p><p>　　Research Que

11、stions </p><p>　　1. How does the fit of garments affect zipper performance as perceived by the users of zippers? </p><p>　　2 .What are the views of the users of zippers on the effect of zipper a

12、pplication on zipper performance? </p><p>　　LITERATURE REVIEW </p><p>　　According to Jyler (2008), zippers are the principal items used in clothing that are partly textile in nature and partly n

13、on-textile, hard material. They provide a neat strong fastening in garments, and can be functional or decorative or both.They provide two edges that will mesh together and resist pulling apart when stressed on a tap

14、e support that can be sewn into the garment (White, 2009). Frings (2002) also added that, zipper are fastening devices consisting of parallel rows of metal, plasti</p><p>　　According to Jyler (2008), zi

15、pper can vary in the materials of the tape, the form and materials of the meshing sections, and in the overall construction and function of the zipper. The latter affects predominantly their methods of attachment to

16、 garments. However, Stone (2004) added that all these zippers are produced to different specifications and their selection should be based on higher quality specification. </p><p>　　Different autho

17、rs classify zipper differently, these classification vary according to zipper properties such as: form, material and purpose. Buchanan and Mayer (2002), and Jyler (2008) all classified zippers according to their for

18、m. Buchanan and Mayer classified zippers into two main groups which are: chain zipper (medium weight zippers with metal or plastic teeth) coil zipper (synthetic coils of polyester or nylon attached to a woven type)

19、useful for fine fabrics. Jyler again indicated that the</p><p>　　Zipper Application </p><p>　　Zipper application is the process of attaching zippers on a garment. This process can some

20、times prove a bit difficult for beginners but they are really easy if the correct procedures are followed, and the zipper or cording foot is used on the machine (Diamond & Diamond, 2007). Inserting a zipper with

21、out this attachment may break the machine needle, perhaps damage the machine, and it’s doubtful that the zipper will look trim once it’s in the garment and may cause permanent damage to the zipper. T</p><

22、p>　　Garment Fit </p><p>　　According to Stone (2004), the fit of a garment also affect the performance of closures on them. There are three basic types of garment fit and these are loss fitting, semi

23、close fitting and close fitting. There is no problem with the loss and semi close fitting garments however the problem is with the close fitting garments. The closeness of garments to the body put extra strain

24、on the zipper (Gaddis, 2011). When these zippers get over stretched to their elastic limits due to the stress on it t</p><p>　　RESEARCH METHODOLOGY </p><p>　　Cross-sectional survey was used

25、 to collect data to seek zipper consumers’ perceptions on the performance of zippers used in the industry from a population of 600 garment producers which comprised of 439 tailors and dressmakers in the Cape Coast Metrop

26、olis and 161 fashion students of Cape Coast Polytechnic and Cape Coast Technical Institute. Simple random sampling procedure was used to get the sample size of 325 respondents comprised of tailors, dressmakers and f

27、ashion students. Based on the obje</p><p>　　FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION </p><p>　　Zipper Application Method most Prone to Failure According to Stone (2004), improper zipper application can dist

28、urb operability and consequently lead to permanent damage of the zipper, so an investigation into the zipper application method used by the dressmakers which was most prone to failure was done. </p><p>

29、　　These findings confirm the findings from the data tabulated in Table 8, where 72.8% of the respondents found the concealed zipper application method to be the most difficult method as compared to other methods. He

30、nce, the suspicion that concealed zipper application method was the first reason for zipper failure on garments. The failure of zippers during garment construction was likely to have come from the use of the conceal

31、ed method. The method may result in failure, and zipper damage due to ba</p><p>　　CONCLUSION </p><p>　　Based on the results, the following conclusions were drawn: </p><p>　　1.&

32、#160;Close fitted garments exert more pressure on the garment; this pressure is felt more on the weakest areas of the garment which are the seams and the zipper, with the zipper being weaker generally than the seams.

33、0;</p><p>　　2. Again, incorrect zipper application affected zipper performance negatively, the concealed zipper application method were a major cause of zipper failure in garments. The concealed zi

34、pper application method requires special expertise and zipper-foot for a professional finish however, the zipper-foots are very expensive when available. </p><p>　　Recommendations </p><p>　

35、　To ensure reliable zippers for the clothing industry in Ghana the study recommends: </p><p>　　1.Dressmakers should not make garments to fit snugly to the body as this puts extra strain on the zipper to forc

36、efully ply open. </p><p>　　2.Dressmakers should occasionally upgrade their skills on the correct application of zippers through workshops and short courses in order to reduce the incidence of zippers fa

37、ilure due to improper zipper application. </p><p><b>　　譯文 </b></p><p>　　服裝的合體性和拉鏈的應(yīng)用對加納市場的影響</p><p><b>　　恩克魯瑪</b></p><p><b>　　摘要</

38、b></p><p>　　拉鏈?zhǔn)欠b行業(yè)中常用的配件之一，在加納地區(qū)，這主要是因為拉鏈的成本相對較低，并且更容易使用，效果也比其他緊固件好。然而，我們發(fā)現(xiàn)，大多數(shù)的拉鏈在加納市場中，并沒有得到有效的使用，主要是因為它們在制衣過程中，被不正確的使用。這項研究的目的是研究服裝制造中影響拉鏈?zhǔn)褂眯实囊蛩?。目?biāo)是確定在服裝制造中拉鏈的影響及拉鏈的應(yīng)用。研究采用的是簡單隨機抽樣技術(shù)，選取了325個裁縫作為研究對象。

39、這項研究的主要發(fā)現(xiàn)是，修身的衣服和隱藏拉鏈的應(yīng)用方法，對拉鏈的應(yīng)用產(chǎn)生了負(fù)而的影響。因此，建議裁縫應(yīng)該提高他們的技能，將拉鏈以最合適的辦法應(yīng)用到服裝中。</p><p>　　關(guān)鍵詞:拉鏈;緊固件;性能;服裝;加納</p><p><b>　　引言 </b></p><p>　　拉鏈?zhǔn)侨蚍b行業(yè)中常用的緊固件。迪斯(2011)認(rèn)為，拉鏈?zhǔn)侨藗冊?/p>

40、他們的童年就學(xué)會使用的第一個小部件，在日常生活中也是最常見的服裝中的配件。實際上，這樣認(rèn)為，一點都不夸張。在拉鏈的安裝中，必須要密切配合好各道工序。當(dāng)這種協(xié)調(diào)失敗的話，拉鏈就很可能無法使用到服裝中，也很難維修和更換。 </p><p><b>　　研究的目標(biāo) </b></p><p>　　這項研究的目的就是分析拉鏈在服裝中的應(yīng)用效果，以及拉鏈在加納服裝市場中的表現(xiàn)。

41、</p><p><b>　　具體目標(biāo)是: </b></p><p>　　1.識別拉鏈對服裝的影響。 </p><p>　　2.確定拉鏈的應(yīng)用及其對服裝性能的影響。 </p><p><b>　　研究的問題 </b></p><p>　　服裝的合體性對拉鏈應(yīng)用的影響? <

42、;/p><p>　　2.站在用戶的視角看拉鏈對服裝的影響 </p><p><b>　　文獻(xiàn)綜述 </b></p><p>　　根據(jù)伊勒(2008)的研究，拉鏈的主要用于服裝的緊固部分，需要和紡織材料融合在一起。他們提供了一個整潔的修身衣服，可以將拉鏈的功能和裝飾效果合二為一。弗林斯(2002)，認(rèn)為，拉鏈?zhǔn)枪潭ㄑb置，是平行成排的金屬，塑料或尼龍牙

43、齒，它們的相鄰邊緣都是吻合的。托馬斯(2009)還表示，拉鏈也可以用于潛水員的服裝中。拉鏈在家庭中的應(yīng)用并不是很長，但自引入以后，在通用服裝領(lǐng)域中已經(jīng)使用了相當(dāng)?shù)拈L時間了。 </p><p>　　根據(jù)伊勒的說法，拉鏈可以有很多材料，嚙合部分的形式也不同。后者對衣服的使用效果有很大的影響。然而，斯托(2004)補充說，所有這些拉鏈按不同的規(guī)格以及高標(biāo)準(zhǔn)規(guī)范來生產(chǎn)的。 </p><p>　　不

44、同的人對拉鏈的分類也不同，可以根據(jù)拉鏈的形式、材料和用途來分。布 坎南和梅耶(2002)，伊勒(2008)，主要是根據(jù)拉的形式來分類。布坎南和馬耶爾是根據(jù)材料來分類的，他們將拉鏈分成兩類:鏈拉鏈(中等重量與金屬或塑料拉鏈牙齒)和線圈拉鏈(合成聚酯或尼龍的線圈連接一個編織類型)。伊勒再次表明，拉鏈的主要類型有:單獨的金屬牙齒，螺旋線圈，塑料模制牙齒以及隱形拉鏈。這兩個分類則基于拉鏈的嚙合部分的性質(zhì)來分類。 </p><

45、p><b>　　拉鏈的應(yīng)用 </b></p><p>　　拉鏈的應(yīng)用，主要是在服裝制作及安裝過程中。這個過程有時對初學(xué)者來說，可能有點困難，但是如果他們真的遵循了正確的程序, 那么是很容易上手的 (迪亞蒙德，2007)。在服裝中插入一個拉鏈，一定要遵循正確的步驟，否則可能會打破機針，損壞機器，而且拉鏈被弄壞后后，可能會對服裝造成永久性的傷害。拉鏈的安裝有各種方法，要根據(jù)具體的服裝和情況

46、使用合適的方法。此外，拉鏈的類型也會大大影響拉鏈的具體應(yīng)用。一般拉鏈?zhǔn)羌性谝粋€槽縫或隱藏在搭接縫內(nèi)。 </p><p><b>　　服裝的合體性 </b></p><p>　　根據(jù)斯托內(nèi)(2004)的研究表明，服裝的合體性也會影響服裝的性能。服裝主要有三種基本類型：寬松、半貼身和貼身。寬松和和半貼身的衣服，在應(yīng)用拉鏈豪時當(dāng)然沒問題，然而問題是貼身的衣服。貼身的修身類

47、服裝會對身體帶來額外的壓力，如果拉鏈的使用不當(dāng)，會給人帶來很不舒服的感受(迪斯，2011)。當(dāng)這些拉鏈克服了其彈性極限的時候，可能會導(dǎo)致拉鏈從中間蹦開，并造成永久性的傷害。具有諷刺意味的是，許多人都喜歡購買或定做貼身的衣服，就是想通過緊身衣使他們看起來更瘦。事實正好相反，穿緊身的衣服會使人看起來更大更重(羅賓遜，2010)。 </p><p><b>　　研究方法 </b></p>

48、;<p>　　本研究采用的是橫斷面調(diào)查法，選取了一家擁有 600 個員工和 439 個裁縫的成衣制造廠，來搜集數(shù)據(jù)，尋求消費者對拉鏈的感知，以及拉鏈在行業(yè)中的使用。此外，還使用簡單隨機抽樣程序獲得了 325 名受訪者，包括：裁縫和追求時尚的學(xué)生。根據(jù)研究目標(biāo)，將使用調(diào)查問卷的方式用于收集數(shù)據(jù)。然后對問卷進行分析。 </p><p><b>　　結(jié)果和討論 </b></p&

49、gt;<p>　　根據(jù)斯托內(nèi)(2004)的研究，拉鏈的應(yīng)用方法決定了拉鏈?zhǔn)褂玫某晒εc否，不當(dāng)?shù)姆椒ㄗ钊菀讓?dǎo)致拉鏈的應(yīng)用失敗，因此會導(dǎo)致拉鏈的永久性損傷，所以要調(diào)查拉鏈的使用方法。 </p><p>　　研究結(jié)果表明，有 72.8%的受訪者認(rèn)為，隱藏式的拉鏈，其他方法相比，其應(yīng)用方法是最困難。因此，隱藏式拉鏈的應(yīng)用是導(dǎo)致拉鏈應(yīng)用失敗的原因。拉鏈在服裝結(jié)構(gòu)的失敗很可能來自隱藏式安裝方法的使用。不當(dāng)?shù)姆椒?/p>

50、可能導(dǎo)致失敗，而且這一損壞的比例還相當(dāng)高，缺乏經(jīng)驗的消費者在其日常使用中，也可能很容易損壞拉鏈，因此導(dǎo)致拉鏈的永久損傷。 </p><p><b>　　結(jié)論 </b></p><p>　　基于研究結(jié)果，我們可以做如下總結(jié): </p><p>　　1.修身緊致的服裝在服裝的制作和拉鏈安裝過程中，面臨更大的壓力；更多的感受到這種壓力的也是最薄弱的地

51、方就是服裝的接縫和拉鏈處，在緊身衣里，拉鏈的應(yīng)用更麻煩。 </p><p>　　2. 此外，不正確的拉鏈應(yīng)用方法會對拉鏈的性能造成負(fù)面影響，隱藏式拉鏈的應(yīng)用方法在服裝中，是導(dǎo)致拉鏈?zhǔn)褂檬〉闹饕?。隱藏式拉鏈的應(yīng)用方法需要有特殊技藝專長的員工按規(guī)定的步驟來完成安裝，并且還需要借助特定的設(shè)備，然而，這是非常昂貴的。 </p><p><b>　　建議 </b><

52、/p><p>　　為了確保拉鏈能夠在加納服裝業(yè)中得到可靠的應(yīng)用，本文的研究建議如下： </p><p>　　1. 制作服裝的布料應(yīng)具備更強的韌性，并盡量少制作緊身的服裝，這會崩壞拉鏈，從而影響整個服裝的使用。 </p><p>　　2. 裁縫應(yīng)該不斷地提高他們的技能，學(xué)會不同的拉鏈應(yīng)用安裝方法，可以通過參加研討會和短期課程來實現(xiàn)，以減少應(yīng)用不當(dāng)所造成的拉鏈故障率。<