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1、<p><b> 外文翻譯及譯稿</b></p><p> 外文題目: Trade liberalization and patterns of strategic</p><p> adjustment in the US textiles and clothing industry </p>
2、;<p> 譯文題目: 美國紡織品和服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)的貿(mào)易自由化和戰(zhàn)略調(diào)整模式 </p><p> Trade liberalization and patterns of strategic</p><p> adjustment in the US textiles and clothing industry</p&g
3、t;<p> Belay Seyoum</p><p><b> U.S.A.</b></p><p> The overall environment facing the US TC industry will be one of rapidly changing market conditions and technological inno
4、vation. With the phase out of quotas and growing number of trade agreements, the US TC industry is being exposed to intense competition in export and domestic markets. This is likely to lead domestic industries/labor to
5、demand intervention by national governments to mitigate the adverse impact of trade liberalization .</p><p> Chinese leaders have expressed strong opposition to outside pressure on their currency policy, ca
6、lling it a form of protectionism and interference in China’s domestic economic policy, and some have even questioned whether the currency is undervalued at all. However, on June 19, 2010, the Chinese central bank, the Pe
7、ople’s Bank of China (PBC) stated that, based on current economic conditions, it had decided to “proceed further with reform of the RMB exchange rate regime and to enhance the RMB exc</p><p> On June 22, 20
8、10, the RMB appreciated by 0.43% against the dollar (to 6.80 yuan) over the previous day, which, at the time, was the largest daily rise since reforms were implemented in July 2005. However, on the following day (June 23
9、) it depreciated to 6.81 yuan. As indicated in Figure 3, the yuan’s exchange rate with the dollar has gone up and down over the past few months, but overall, it has appreciated by 1.9% through October 1, 2010, with most
10、of that appreciation occurring in September. 3</p><p> In spite of the substantial job losses, the US TC industry remains technologically advanced partly due to increased productivity resulting from advance
11、s in technology and design capabilities. Textile production is capital intensive and modern technology is essential to meet the increasing for high-quality products. Over the last few years, US textiles and apparel firms
12、 have substantially increased their investment to maintain modern manufacturing facilities as well as improve production and mark</p><p> An important survival tool for US TC firms is to expand their potent
13、ial market by offering new product designs and product categories. Manufacturers must try to bring a steady stream of products to market that are in line with the taste, preferences of the consumer. They can also expand
14、their market potential by offering new product categories. Two of the fastest growing apparel segments in the US, for example, have been the women’s plus and men’s big and tall segments (Driscoll, 2004). Plus-siz</p&g
15、t;<p> US TC firms should target a narrow segment of the market that provides the best opportunity for success. In textiles, the focus should be on a few specialized segments such as carpets, nonwovens and techni
16、cal textiles. Similarly, apparel producers should increase their focus on core products, reduce vertical integration to shed overhead costs, and establish alliances with other firms to consolidate resources and increase
17、market share.</p><p> Finally, in view of rising incomes and high growth rates in many developing countries such as China, Brazil, and India, there are potential export market opportunities for US textile a
18、nd apparel products. US export interests may be served by seeking improved access to the retail distribution systems of developing countries. US textile firms should also be able to use Mexico to export to the European U
19、nion and other countries, taking advantage of the Mexico-EU trade agreement. Since the conclusio</p><p> This paper suggests a demand pull model as a basis for developing a network structure in the clothing
20、 industry. In a demand pull model, consumer demand is the driver of sales unlike the supply push model whereby the manufacturer pushes goods to the retailer regardless of consumer demand.</p><p> Retail com
21、panies have become powerful due to their sufficient capital and marketing expertise to build loyalty among consumers. They are the lead firm in view of their central role in the organizational network. The lead clothing
22、retailer integrates industrial capabilities such as sourcing of textiles, design, product branding and its relations with consumers enables it to keep abreast of fashion consumption trends.</p><p> The lead
23、 firm conveys its requirements to these changing trends (changes in style, material requirements) to its suppliers or subcontractors (Table 7). It also provides assistance with the purchasing of capital equipment and tec
24、hnology necessary to produce apparel in accordance with market demand. The fragmented webs of suppliers and subcontractors are bound together through information technology, online data sharing, joint product development
25、, and collaborative forecasting, planning and replen</p><p> The lion’s share of the benefits from quota elimination is expected to accrue to China. Its low labor cost, high productivity, range and flexibil
26、ity of services as well as efficient supplier networks will make China the supplier of choice. About 87% of apparel executives that participated in a cotton sourcing summit in Miami in February 2004, agreed that China wi
27、ll soon account for 50–90% of all apparel sold in the US market (National Labor Committee, 2004). This means rationalization of product</p><p> Exporters from Latin America, Africa and the Caribbean are lik
28、ely to lose market share to China since they largely compete on price (not quality) and lack the capability to produce high value added products. Even with the introduction of safeguards on a range of products that are o
29、f export interest to these countries, their US market share has declined since the phase out of quotas. With the complete removal of quotas in 2008, it is difficult for these countries to compete on price. Since the US&l
30、t;/p><p> What are the implications for TC firms in countries that are vulnerable to competition from China? First, they should capitalize on their proximity to the US market. Their ability to offer lower tran
31、sport cost, lower lead times as well as duty free entry to the US market may attract the fashion-oriented segment of the US industry. This will depend on access to good local transport infrastructure to get goods to mark
32、et as well as advanced telecommunications systems to link suppliers and customers</p><p> Secondly, low wages do not necessarily provide a comparative advantage with respect to China. Firms should develop n
33、ew capabilities in areas in which China does not have a comparative advantage (yarn, and silk non-apparel). This requires, inter alia, investment in modern production methods and development of competitive sources of loc
34、al raw materials. Even in product areas in which China is expanding its exports, developing country suppliers that enhance their skills, technology, supply chains a</p><p> Thirdly, an important strategic c
35、onsideration that limits the competitive impact of China is the need on the part of multinationals to diversify their risk portfolios. US manufacturers and retailers are likely to adopt a diversified risk adjusted sourci
36、ng strategy that balances cost, speed to market as well as political and economic stability. They may not be prepared to rely on China for critical inputs beyond a certain threshold of risk. Furthermore, Mexico, Central
37、America and the Caribbean c</p><p> Finally, existing US rules of origin requirements to qualify for free access to the US market have had unintended consequences. One of the requirements is that they have
38、to use US yarn and fabric. This has had the effect of making their exports less competitive. The US may have to modify its rules of origin to allow developing countries to import from Asia or other competitive sources wi
39、thout losing their preferential status.</p><p> 美國紡織品和服裝產(chǎn)業(yè)的貿(mào)易自由化和戰(zhàn)略調(diào)整模式</p><p><b> 作者:貝蕾·塞尤姆</b></p><p><b> 譯者:武智</b></p><p> 美國紡織品和服裝行
40、業(yè)面臨的是一個市場條件快速變化、科技不斷創(chuàng)新的環(huán)境。隨著配額的取消和越來越多貿(mào)易協(xié)議的出現(xiàn),美國的紡織品和服裝行業(yè)在出口和國內(nèi)市場上面臨著更為激烈的競爭。這可能會導致國內(nèi)的企業(yè)/勞動者向本國政府施加壓力要求進行需求的干預,通過這種做法來緩和貿(mào)易自由化帶來的不利影響。(斯坦德貝瑞和維丁克思,2004)</p><p> 盡管美國國內(nèi)紡織行業(yè)的就業(yè)人數(shù)大量減少,美國紡織品和服裝行業(yè)依然保持著技術性的進步,主要是依靠
41、在技術上和設計上的能力取得的進步使得生產(chǎn)率大幅度的提高。紡織品產(chǎn)品是資本密集型的,這種高質(zhì)量產(chǎn)品需要現(xiàn)代的技術來滿足增長的需求。在過去的若干年中,美國的紡織品和服裝企業(yè)為了達到市場鄰近的內(nèi)在優(yōu)勢的最大化增加了相當大的投資,來保持現(xiàn)代生產(chǎn)的能力和改善生產(chǎn)和營銷的能力。在服裝方面,低技術含量的生產(chǎn)工作已經(jīng)被轉(zhuǎn)移到低成本的國家,而高技術含量的生產(chǎn)工作仍然在本國進行。為了能順利地適應新的環(huán)境,美國紡織品和服裝行業(yè)需要將他們的競爭優(yōu)勢變成資本。他
42、們需要建立起一套更靈活的操作系統(tǒng)來滿足生產(chǎn)創(chuàng)新的高標準,另外還要建立起更容易變化—尋找的商業(yè)文化。(克里度夫,2005)</p><p> 美國紡織品和服裝企業(yè)的一個重要生存手段就是通過提供新產(chǎn)品的設計和產(chǎn)品目錄來擴大他們潛在的市場。生產(chǎn)者必須試著將一個穩(wěn)定的產(chǎn)品系列引入到與消費者的口味和偏好相一致的市場中去。他們同樣能通過提供新的產(chǎn)品目錄來擴大他們的潛在市場。比如,在美國增長最快的兩個服裝部門是女式的加大服裝
43、部門和男式的大而高的服裝部門。(迪瑞斯科,2004)加大型服裝銷售在2005年估計達到470億美元,占整個服裝市場的20%。重要的一點是識別企業(yè)的目標顧客和評定企業(yè)是否能成功的滿足他們的需求。</p><p> 美國的紡織品和服裝企業(yè)應該以一個狹小的提供最好的成功機會的市場部門作為目標。在紡織品方面,重點應該放在一些諸如地毯,非紡織而成的紡織品和技術類的紡織品上。同樣,服裝生產(chǎn)者應該將他們的注意力更多的集中在核
44、心產(chǎn)品上,將垂直生產(chǎn)費用減少到企業(yè)的管理費用,和其他的企業(yè)建立聯(lián)盟來鞏固資源和增加市場的份額。</p><p> 最后,鑒于諸如中國、巴西和印度這樣的發(fā)展中國家收入的增加和高增長率,對于美國紡織品和服裝產(chǎn)品有許多潛在的出口市場機會。通過尋找已經(jīng)改善的發(fā)展中國家的零售系統(tǒng)令美國獲得出口利益。美國紡織品企業(yè)同樣能夠利用墨西哥和歐盟之間的貿(mào)易協(xié)定,通過墨西哥將產(chǎn)品出口到歐盟和其他的國家。由于北美自由貿(mào)易區(qū)協(xié)定的存在,
45、為了能出口到美國市場,許多亞洲和歐洲企業(yè)已經(jīng)在墨西哥生產(chǎn)某些產(chǎn)品。</p><p> 本文建立了一個需求推動模型,將其作為發(fā)展服裝紡織行業(yè)的網(wǎng)絡框架的基礎。在這個需求推動的模型中,消費者的需求是銷售的推動力,這個模型不同于供給推動模型,在那個模型中生產(chǎn)者不考慮消費者的需求而將產(chǎn)品提供給零售商。</p><p> 零售公司實力雄厚是由于他們有足夠的資金和市場營銷知識在客戶間樹立起信譽度。
46、由于在整個組織框架中他們處于中心地位,所以他們是領導性的企業(yè)。這些領頭的服裝零售商具備整合諸如紡織品來源、設計、產(chǎn)品的品牌和客戶之間的聯(lián)系等產(chǎn)業(yè)之間的能力,使得他們能夠始終跟隨著時尚消費的趨勢。</p><p> 領導性的企業(yè)將它們的需求傳遞到這些不斷變化的趨勢中(造型、原材料需求上的變化),傳遞到它們的供應商或者轉(zhuǎn)包合同商那里。(圖7)。它同樣提供資金設備的銷售和技術,這些都是使服裝生產(chǎn)滿足市場需求所必需的。
47、通過信息技術、在線數(shù)據(jù)的共享、共同產(chǎn)品的發(fā)展,合作性的預測、計劃和補貨活動,各種供應商和轉(zhuǎn)包合同商總是聯(lián)系在一起。當運輸變的越來越小型化、越來越頻繁的時候,當銷售的數(shù)據(jù)直接傳送到生產(chǎn)和負責運輸?shù)姆b生產(chǎn)商和供應商那里的時候,零售商將保留少量的庫存。這個模型解釋了零售商的作用,它是作為一個中間人,起到綜合設計、紡織品來源、品牌的功能,而且通過一系列的供應商/轉(zhuǎn)包合同商來作為服裝生產(chǎn)的便利者。通過技術改進和信息技術進行的這些重新構建在競爭越
48、來越激烈的環(huán)境中是一種不斷前進的方式。水平的構建,大量的生產(chǎn)方法不再確保未來的競爭性。</p><p> 配額取消所帶來的市場份額的大幅度增長被認為是有利于中國的發(fā)展的。中國低廉的勞動力成本,高的生產(chǎn)效率和產(chǎn)量,靈活多變的服務和有效的供應網(wǎng)絡將使得中國成為供應商的選擇。在參加2004年2月于邁阿密舉行的棉花來源會議的服裝執(zhí)行官中,大約有87%的人認為中國在不久以后將占有美國市場所有銷售服裝的50%—90%的份額
49、(國家勞動委員會,2004年)。這意味著中國生產(chǎn)的合理性和擁有大量穩(wěn)定的買主。在紡織品和服裝行業(yè)的狹窄部門中,其他受益的國家可能包括印度和巴基斯坦。配額的取消同樣可能帶給消費者低價,這是由于配額成本的消失,在美國市場上配額的成本是紡織品和服裝銷售成本中的一個重要組成部分。知名的品牌仍然保持著市場的價值因為它們不會受到零售價格縮水的影響。為了建立一個后配額時代的實施計劃,估計紡織品和服裝企業(yè)的內(nèi)在能力諸如產(chǎn)品的來源,生產(chǎn),后勤,運輸?shù)葘τ?/p>
50、他們來說是很重要。</p><p> 來自拉丁美洲、非洲和加勒比海的出口商可能會將失去的市場份額白白讓給中國,因為他們主要是在價格上展開競爭(而不是在質(zhì)量上),沒有能力去生產(chǎn)高附加值的產(chǎn)品。即使一定的貿(mào)易保護對這些國家的部分產(chǎn)品出口有利,但是自從配額取消以來他們在美國市場的份額是下降的。隨著2008年配額的完全取消,這些國家很難在價格上進行競爭。舉個例子,美國政府在2002年解除了對29類商品的配額限制,中國在
51、美國的市場份額從原來區(qū)區(qū)的9%(2002年)一下子躍升到65%(2003年),而美國零售商(從中國購買服裝的)價格下降了48%(國家勞動委員會,2004年)。在棉制睡衣方面(配額的取消),中國占美國的市場份額在2003年從25%上升到39%,而加勒比海國家的棉制睡衣在美國的市場份額從13%下降到只有僅僅的3%。在配額取消的前12個月,中國服裝在美國的市場份額價值上上升了59%,而許多中美和南美國家卻是出現(xiàn)明顯下降的趨勢。</p&g
52、t;<p> 對于那些面臨中國激烈競爭的國家來說,他們應該怎么辦呢?首先,他們應該充分利用與美國在地理條件上鄰近的這種優(yōu)勢。這些國家能夠提供比較低的運輸成本,比較短的交貨時間和享受出口美國市場關稅豁免的優(yōu)惠政策,這些都將吸引美國產(chǎn)業(yè)中那些以時尚為導向的部門。這將依賴于當?shù)馗玫牡倪\輸基礎結(jié)構的獲取,這些基礎結(jié)構能將好的產(chǎn)品送到更好的市場上,同時依賴于更先進通信系統(tǒng)的獲得,它們用來連接供應商和客戶。當?shù)仄髽I(yè)和政府需要在創(chuàng)造
53、性的環(huán)境下進行合作,這個環(huán)境是通過促進商務和發(fā)展基礎結(jié)構來吸引和保持紡織品和服裝行業(yè)的,因為紡織品和服裝行業(yè)在創(chuàng)造出口和就業(yè)方面的作用很大。</p><p> 其次,低工資并不意味著中國有相對的比較優(yōu)勢。企業(yè)應該在中國沒有比較優(yōu)勢的那些領域(紗線、絲、非紡織類方面)挖掘出他們的新潛能。這需要在現(xiàn)代生產(chǎn)方法上進行其他項目的投資,需要在當?shù)卦牧蟻碓吹母偁幮陨线M行發(fā)展。甚至在中國正在擴大出口的那些產(chǎn)品的領域上,發(fā)展
54、中國家的供應商也可以比中國更快地提高他們生產(chǎn)的技能、技術水平、供應鏈和市場營銷的能力(通過合資、許可證授權),來保持他們在美國市場上的份額。</p><p> 第三,限制中國競爭作用的一個重要的戰(zhàn)略考慮就是擴大對多個國家的需要來分散他們的風險比重。美國的生產(chǎn)者和零售商可能會采取一種分散風險的調(diào)整來源國的戰(zhàn)略來平衡成本,加速市場、政治、經(jīng)濟上的穩(wěn)定性。他們不會單單依賴中國提供主要的進口產(chǎn)品,因為這樣會超出一定的風
55、險界限。再者,墨西哥、中美洲和加勒比海國家在一些時尚的部門上對美國的公司有著吸引,這些部門對時尚的快速反應變化是非常重要的。</p><p> 最后,現(xiàn)有的美國對原產(chǎn)地規(guī)則限制了對美國市場的自由獲取,這種規(guī)則已經(jīng)產(chǎn)生了不可預料的結(jié)果。其中一個要求是他們不得不使用美國的紗線和纖維。這已經(jīng)對他們出口競爭壓力的減少產(chǎn)生了作用。美國可能不得不修改原產(chǎn)地規(guī)則來允許發(fā)展中國家從亞洲或者其他競爭性的來源國進口而不會失去他們的
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